Rescued Smith Rock climbers chose wrong descent, ran out of rope

Two California men climbing the popular Monkey Face formation at Smith Rock State Park became stranded when they chose a wrong descent route and one ran out of rope halfway down Wednesday afternoon, prompting a rescue operation that took until after midnight to conclude, Deschutes County sheriff’s deputies said.

Shortly before 5 p.m., Cordero Chavez, 29, of Lone Pine, California, contacted 911 dispatchers to say he and his climbing partner, Tyler Coleman, 26, of South Lake Tahoe, had reached the summit of Monkey Face but now were in need of assistance, said sheriff’s Lt. Bryan Husband.

The pair had chosen the wrong route to descent, leaving not enough rope to reach the bottom, Husband said. Chavez was still near the summit, but Coleman was nearly halfway down the approximately 450-foot rock face, unable to ascend or descend further.

Both men told dispatchers they were unhurt, but needed help safely completing their descent, Husband said.

As it so happened, 11 Sheriff’s Office Search and Rescue unit volunteers had been training at the park and were just wrapping up when the call came in, the lieutenant said. They were joined by five more SAR volunteers and three deputies to begin the rescue mission.

The Redmond Fire Department also responded, helping ferry personnel across the Crooked River on the northwest side of the park, closest to Monkey Face.

Four SAR volunteers climbed to the summit of Monkey Face and were helped by others at the base in pulling more ropes and rescue gear to the top.

Chavez was contacted and further secured, and one volunteer was lowered to Coleman’s location. Using two ropes, Coleman was transferred onto the rescue ropes and the pair were lowered the rest of the way down the rock, reaching the bottom around midnight, Husband said. Chavez was then assisted in rappelling off the proper side to descend Monkey Face.

The two men were unhurt and did not require further medical help.

Husband said he’s not aware of the pair’s level of climbing experience.

“The fact that they were able to summit Monkey Face by themselves leads me to identify them as more than beginners,” he said, adding that “this was their first time climbing Monkey Face.”

Husband said the sheriff’s office “would like to remind those recreating, whether it be at Smith Rock State Park or in the backcountry, to research and pre-plan your chosen location to minimize risk.”